and despite the fact that the gardens are very frozen and unwelcoming right now, I really have to stop getting distracted by citrus fruit and start making sure that the greenhouse is up and that seeds are all getting started on schedule.
But before I depart from all this citrus and move on to other things…
2011 Citrus Season Recipes
Marmalades and Jam
- Seville Orange Marmalade, using David Lebovitz’s recipe: This is the second time I’ve made this marmalade, and it’s one of my favorites; a really traditional bitter orange marmalade. I added a cup of water to the recipe; when I made it the first time, so much of the liquid boiled off that I was worried about it burning.
- Blood Orange Marmalade with Honey, and adaptation of Sherri Brooks Vinton’s orange marmalade recipe in Put’Em Up: I substituted blood oranges and added some honey, and ended up with a very mellow, sweet marmalade.
- The Meyer Lemon Marmalade is my own recipe, based off of a traditional marmalade recipe, with one part fruit, one part sugar, and one part water. This recipe decreases the water to emphasize the flavor and juiciness of meyer lemons.
- Pomelo Marmalade with Cardamom and Rosewater is also my recipe: exotic flavors make this a wonderful marmalade to use in all kinds of savory recipes. It will pair well with couscous, quinoa, and other grains; it makes a great glaze for chicken, and I’ve been meaning to try out a new thumbprint cookie recipe using a middle-eastern butter cookie dough that I think will work wonderfully with this marmalade. This recipe has added pectin, which is nice if you’re not feeling the unpredictable science experiment deal (making marmalade with no added pectin).
- Orange Jam with Rum and Elderflower was another new recipe this year. It is very much not a marmalade, and very much a sweet, orangey, delicate jam.
Pickles and Salt Preserves
- I have yet to actually taste these since they are still fermenting, but I am so excited for these spicy Rajisthani Kumquat Pickles from Tigress in a Pickle. I’m definitely looking forward to a plate of saffron rice, chicken curry, and some of these…
- Preserved Lemons from Food In Jars: a great simple recipe that requires no cooking. I worked at a french restaurant in San Francisco for awhile, and one of the dishes I always was making were theseSanddabs a la Plancha with a brown butter sauce, roasted garlic, and preserved lemons. These silly little fish gave me nightmares, since they needed to be perfectly seared on a flaming hot cast-iron skillet and it was a really tricky dish to execute correctly (especially if you need 5 or 6 orders of them) but man oh man oh man were they delicious. Once my lemons are done I will definitely be re-creating this at home, away from the pressures of a Saturday night saute shift.
Baked Goods & Sweet Things
- Blood Orange Curd, using David Lebovitz’s Lemon Curd recipe: I switched out half the lemons for blood oranges, and the curd came out a wonderful hue of orangey pink. If you can get your hands on fresh pastured eggs and citrus fruit, this recipe took all of five minutes to make and was ridiculously good; eat it from the jar with a spoon while it’s still warm- kind of good.
- Triple Citrus Butter Cake, an adaptation of a recipe from Gourmet. I served ours topped with peach-raspberry jam and powdered sugar.
- Shaker Lemon Pie from Smitten Kitchen
- While lemon isn’t necessarily the star player in this Marlborough Pudding Pie, it’s a vital ingredient and this is a really tasty pie, unlike any apple pie you’ve ever eaten before. The recipe only calls for a whole lemon if you’re using fresh apples, but I use my canned unsweetened apple sauce and the juice and rind of a lemon.
A Few Resources
- David Lebovitz wrote a fantastic article about citrus fruit that outlines varieties, flavors, etc.
- I got to try some of the Quince-Orange Marmalade with Cardamom that she made, and it definitely affirmed my opinion that Shae from Hitchiking to Heaven knows her stuff. Her prize-winning Meyer Lemon Marmalade looks so tasty, and her essay Why Good Marmalade Takes Time is a must-read for anyone that wants to really start fixating on the citrusy things in life.
And now…. out to the greenhouse. I have flowers that need planting.